Most brands would be thrilled to make it to 100. Vacheron Constantin? They’re at 270. And instead of going the obvious route with a big, vintage reissue or loud anniversary flex, they’ve taken a more considered approach. They’ve refined their signatures and revealed just enough of the mechanics beneath.
One of the most quietly compelling pieces in the lineup, now officially unveiled at Watches & Wonders 2025, is the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface. I had the chance to go hands-on with it ahead of the show, and it’s the kind of watch that doesn’t just tell time. It invites you to study it. Layered, architectural, and far more modern than you’d expect from a platinum triple calendar.
On the Wrist
Let’s start with the wear. The 41mm platinum case has presence. It’s hefty in the hand, as platinum should be, but not overbearing on the wrist. Thanks to a relatively slim 11.05mm thickness and the stepped lugs, the case sits flatter than I expected and hugs the wrist despite its weight.
The polish on the bezel and lugs adds a bit of sophistication. It’s elegant, not showy. In a world of big, loud cases, this feels like a return to watchmaking confidence. No tricks, no flare-ups, just quiet quality.
The Dial
The dial is what stops you. And it is definitely one of the most interesting parts of the watch. But you may miss the details upon first glass.
From a distance, you may not even notice the intricate guilloché pattern. But up close, and in different lights, the dial really shines. The dial is partially skeletonized and cut from 18K gold, then hand-guilloché with a Maltese cross–inspired motif. It's layered over movement plate, which gives the entire watch an unusual architectural depth. It feels more like you’re peering into a mechanism than reading a dial.
The day and month are printed on transparent sapphire discs on the top side of the dial, and they float just above the movement in a way that’s incredibly crisp in person. There’s no distortion, no haze. The typography is thin and restrained, and it adds to the legibility of the watch.
The blued pointer date hand tracks the outer calendar ring, and at 6 o’clock, there’s the moon phase. Silver, clean, and photorealistic, but not overly decorative. Just well-executed. Like the rest of the watch, it feels like everything was designed to do a job beautifully, not just to look beautiful.
The Movement
Inside is the Vacheron Constantin Calibre 2460 QCL/270, an evolution of the 2450 architecture adapted specifically for this calendar configuration. The finishing is what you’d expect from Vacheron. Geneva Seal–certified, with an openworked 22K gold rotor and “côte unique” stripes that break from the usual Geneva stripes.
Through the display caseback, the movement doesn’t try to overwhelm you with flash. But under a loupe, the hand beveling, mirror-polished screw heads, and chamfered edges remind you that this isn’t mass-produced haute horlogerie.
What’s more surprising is how slim the movement is—just 6.35mm. Considering how much it’s doing (day, date, month, moon phase), it contributes to the watch’s sleek profile and comfortable wearability. It’s a calendar watch that doesn’t feel bulky, and that’s rarer than it should be.
Final Thoughts
This might be my favorite release this year from Vacheron Constantin. It is understated, yet it has a lot going on. From the guilloche, visible in different ways from different angles, to the skeletonized dial, there is no lack of visual interest. However, at the same time, the Complete Calendar Openface doesn’t feel cluttered. The calendar display is surprisingly intuitive. Legibility is high, even with the openface layout. You don’t need to squint or interpret anything. It’s all there, clean and clear, despite the visual depth.
Of the three Openface models Vacheron released this year, the Complete Calendar might be the one that gets overlooked at first. But that’s also exactly why it matters. It’s technical, yes. But it’s also quiet. It’s not trying to redefine the calendar watch. It’s trying to refine it.
To learn more about the Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Complete Calendar Openface, head over to Vacheron Constantin’s website.